Gamcheon Village: History With A Burst of Colour

This past weekend we decided to do a little urban exploring and check out Gamcheon Village. The village is located up on a mountainside in Saha-gu not far from our old neighbourhood. This village is very unique in that it looks and feels completely different from the Busan we are used to.

Gamcheon Village, also called Taegeukdo Village, was first inhabited in the early 1900’s by followers of the Taegeukdo religion.  This religion focuses on the power polarity of Ying and Yang. The village became host to many refugees of the Korean War. People would flee south to this Busan slum to escape the ever encroaching Northerners.

In 2010, the community was transformed into an arts and culture village and several abandoned homes were converted into exhibition spaces, art shops and cultural facilities. Local colleges and residents have produced several pieces of art that have been scattered throughout various alleyways and can also be seen inside several homes.

To get to the village we took the subway to Toesong Station and headed out exit 6. From here we took a taxi up to Gamcheon Elementary School. Once we stepped out of the taxi we could see endless rows of low-rise homes that lit up the mountainside with colour. It was a beautiful sight. To appreciate the beauty we jumped right in and started wandering.

   

We made our way down a narrow paved road leading into the village and got a closer look at some of the installation art on display. We continued down the road and eventually came across the old bath house which has been turned into the village community centre. Inside were several pieces of artwork that reflected the village and its past. Tour maps can also be found here. We grabbed a map at the counter but, of course, they were only available in Korean so we didn’t bother to take one along. If you really want to immerse yourself in the village, you can participate in a stamp scavenger hunt. Basically you need to visit specific locations to receive a stamp. Once all stamps are collected you will be rewarded with a postcard. We didn’t bother with this, instead we studied the map and got the gist of our surroundings then wandered freely, exploring on our own. Once we left the community centre, we noticed several buildings had little arrows in the shape of fish that guide you through, just like the map. These signs are helpful and prevent you from walking into someone’s bedroom or outdoor kitchen.

We roamed through narrow concrete alleyways that wind their way between oddly shaped and positioned homes. On both sides we could see rows upon rows of cubical homes, stacked on top of each other like Lego, along with several gates and steps leading in all directions, it was a maze. Squeezing tightly between homes felt like we were on a mission. There are so many nooks and crannies to discover, many filled with random quirky paintings and sculptures. At every turn something new presented itself. Sometimes homes would be left with doors and windows wide open allowing us to sneak a peek inside. In front of several homes we saw potted plants on every step, pepper vines growing up walls, and clothing lines that strung from home to home. Everything was interconnected and symbolized a tight nit community.

   

We gradually made our way higher up in the village, stopping frequently to soak in the views from all levels. Looking down at the beautiful vista of Busan harbour and the sea was refreshing. We loved the juxtaposition of the tiers of candy coloured homes against the ocean. It made us feel like tourists again. This is a completely unique area of Busan and far different from most tourist sites in the city. It gives you a real sense of history while experiencing a modern twist on the past.

How to get there: Take Line 1 to Toseong Station (토성역). Walk out exit 6 and take a taxi to Gamcheon Elementary School (감천초등학교). You can also take a mini located outside exit 8 (in front of the PNU Cancer Center) it will bring you to the school.

T&A